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Deli-sh!

Posted: 11 November 2011

I remember the first time I went to New York in the early 80’s and made a trip down to the Lower East Side – a very different place from the one it is now – for a salt beef and pickle sandwich on rye. Authentic and just like the movie, Crossing Delancey, it was run-down, rough, and not altogether safe, but vibrant and alive. What I remember most were the delis, the over-crowded houseware stores and, especially, the men walking down the streets in their furry hats and long frock coats. Fast-forward thirty years to Blandford Street in London this week, and I had to blink to make sure that I was not in New York! On Tuesday, I went to The Deli West One with great excitement to get a sandwich for my lunch. After just five days trading, the queue was snaking around the block and, when news gets out, it’s only going to get longer. It was mostly local business people, but intermingled with them were…. none other than the men in the furry hats and frock coats coming for authentic, kosher, New York deli-style food in Central London.

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The Deli West One was started by four guys who actually know nothing about the restaurant business, but who have clearly been searching for the deli experience in London and could not find it. They took the bull by the horns and decided to open one themselves! Other than being a little too small – I am certain that due to demand, they will have to open a bigger one very soon – The Deli West One is the real deal. Primarily a take-away, although they do have a few tables, everyone eating there seemed to know each other! They have imported a chef from a deli in New York and it shows – the meat is superb, and they must be using their granny’s chicken soup recipe, as it is absolutely delicious! Portions are generous, the menu has been lifted from an old-style deli and it has everything on it that you would expect: salt beef, pastrami, tongue, turkey and pure beef hotdogs with sauerkraut.

It’s a lunchtime business and, unlike other mid-market sandwich bars who don’t know what to do with their stores in the evenings, Deli West One has hit on a great idea: Saturday night, after dark until midnight they offer a delivery service: either online or by telephone, you can order a “shabbat box”, which is chicken soup, chopped liver, roast chicken, vegetables and dessert – the full works! Anyone want to meet me for a salt beef sandwich? Let me know: moira@thembsgroup.co.uk.

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