On the global stage, London is renowned for its tailoring, and in the heart of Mayfair, is a street that is synonymous with men’s tailoring in particular: Savile Row. First emerging in the 1730s as part of the Burlington Estate development, it has grown into a renowned row of tailors that is recognised the world-over, serving clientele from Charles III and Winston Churchill to Laurence Olivier and Daniel Craig. Over the years, it has been a hotspot for men (or originally, gentlemen) to smarten up and collect personally tailored suits for both special occasions and day-to-day wear alike – but now, the clientele is expanding.
In recent years, Savile Row has progressed from almost exclusively serving men, and now plays home to tailors which are also catering to women – a change that seems only fitting as the street itself was originally named after Lady Dorothy Savile. Just last summer, the 203-year-old bespoke tailor, Norton & Sons, launched its first tailoring service for women in order to attract more female customers. Although this is by no means its first foray in female fashion – in the past it has created bespoke pieces for royalty like Queen Victoria and has dressed women through collaborations with Christopher Kane, Jenny Packham and The Kooples – the introduction of this service marked the first step in a more open and official declaration of the brand’s focus on female customers. According to the Norton & Sons website, the tailoring service is aimed at women who ‘seek craftmanship and tailoring that reflects their individual taste and requirements’.
“Known for its commitment to sustainable practices, Knatchbull is also the first UK made-to-measure tailoring house to achieve a B Corp status.”
Just down the road, Knatchbull (originally known as ‘The Deck’) made history as the first tailoring house with a shopfront for women to open on Savile Row. It was opened by Daisy Knatchbull in 2021 who, herself, made history as the first woman to wear a morning suit to Royal Ascot in 2016, and has made suits for India Hicks, Sarah, Duchess of York, Elizabeth Hurley, Jodie Whittaker and Adjoa Andoh, amongst many others. Known for its commitment to sustainable practices, Knatchbull is also the first UK made-to-measure tailoring house to achieve a B Corp status. Beyond this, the premise of Knatchbull is not to replicate men’s tailoring for women, but to create something personal and individual that celebrates female bodies. For example, the garments are all made with large inlays to accommodate for the changes that women’s bodies may go through, whether that’s menopause, IVF treatment or mastectomies to name just a few examples. As many shoppers move towards more sustainable, eco-friendly and, crucially, personalised shopping experiences, the options that are opening up on Savile Row bring a personal, luxury element that until recently, has been almost exclusively reserved for men.
However, this service isn’t only available on Savile Row; an iteration of this is now easily accessible on the high street at a significantly lower price point. Marks & Spencer offers free alterations on suits priced above £299, Uniqlo’s threshold for free alterations on trousers is £20 and Reiss offers in-store tailoring services to adjust its off-the-peg pieces. With 49% of UK women aged 16-44 years old saying they struggle to find clothes that fit well, it is little surprise that brands are offering their customers the ability to alter clothes they have purchased with them.
Although these high street pieces are not made-to-measure in the same way that the pieces from Knatchbull or Norton & Sons can be, as trends change, streetwear declines and sneakers become less popular, the ability to alter trousers to fit is a sensible move from high street shops, as it allows women with a range of different body types to comfortably fit into the same style of clothes. Plus it also sends a message that the brands that are offering these services care about their customers – no matter what the trends are, they are there to help ensure the clothes fit.
“Tailoring encourages consumers to purchase higher quality clothes that will last longer.”
Sustainability is also a crucial factor when thinking about tailoring, especially when nine out of ten women surveyed reported buying from fast fashion brands and approximately 350,000 tonnes of clothing waste is sent to landfill each year. Tailoring, as a concept, encourages consumers to purchase higher quality clothes that will last longer, as it means spending more on quality pieces that last. For example, Knatchbull uses materials like wool, silk and linen to create its garments and Norton & Sons opts for similar. These types of materials are durable and comfortable which, when made-to-measure are intended as pieces that the customer will wear time and time again. Using materials like these, rather than nylons, polyesters and viscose, also boosts the UK economy as there are approximately 100 mills across the country that are part of the UK’s £62 billion fashion and textile industry.
This rise in popularity around tailoring and made-to-measure has also largely been encouraged by social media. The trend #SewingTikTok launched many influencers’ careers back in 2021 and has racked up 7.4 billion views (and counting) on the social media platform. Even if the creators are not making clothes themselves – although many do – there are a plethora of channels that analyse fashion shows and red carpets, mentioning the fit, the materials and the way the clothes have been cut. This kind of education has launched an uptick in awareness and interest around how women’s garments are made, and, as a result, has helped to boost a renewed appreciation for tailoring.
Knatchbull and Norton & Sons are just two of an increasing number of tailors that are bringing to the fore the opportunity for women who are eco-conscious to be able to buy investment pieces without compromising on style. Just down the road also sits Banshee of Savile Row – which was founded in 2019 – and Huntsman Savile Row which has been creating bespoke ladieswear since 1849 but is now offering bespoke suits and other garments that are catered towards women. With the continued opening of stores like these, and with high street stores also getting involved in the tailoring trend, what has always felt like a predominantly male service has spread its catchment. So now women can also enjoy ‘quality over quantity’ investment pieces and garments that truly fit their bodies.
